Paritian

Science

Ocean Wave Calculator (Wavelength, Speed and Power)

Wavelength, speed, group speed and power of ocean waves from their period, the water depth and the wave height, solving the full dispersion relation.

Results

Wavelength 121.2 m
Wave speed 12.12 m/s
Group speed (how fast the energy travels) 9.27 m/s
Wave power per metre of crest 26.2 kW/m
Wavelength in deep water 156.1 m
Water depth regime Intermediate depth — the wave feels the bottom

What this tool does

In deep water a wave's length and speed depend only on its period — a 10-second swell is about 156 m long and travels at about 56 km/h — but as the water gets shallower than half a wavelength the bottom slows it down, the wave shortens and steepens, and that is what makes it break. Swell energy travels at the group speed, half the wave speed in deep water, which is why surf forecasts track it. Power is per metre of crest, using linear wave theory, so it is an estimate for steep or breaking waves.

Formula

ω² = g k tanh(k h) · L = 2π ÷ k · c = L ÷ T · c_g = c ÷ 2 × (1 + 2kh ÷ sinh 2kh) · P = ρ g H² ÷ 8 × c_g

Variables

SymbolMeaningUnit
tpWave periods
hwWater depthm
hhWave height (crest to trough)m
LWavelengthm
CWave speedm/s
CGGroup speed (how fast the energy travels)m/s
PWave power per metre of crestkW/m
L0Wavelength in deep waterm
RGWater depth regime—

Worked example

  • Wave period10 s
  • Water depth20 m
  • Wave height (crest to trough)1.5 m
  • Wavelength121.2 m
  • Wave speed12.12 m/s
  • Group speed (how fast the energy travels)9.27 m/s
  • Wave power per metre of crest26.2 kW/m
  • Wavelength in deep water156.1 m
  • Water depth regimeIntermediate depth — the wave feels the bottom

Limitations

  • The formula assumes ideal conditions: no friction losses, no air resistance and no efficiency losses unless you enter them.
  • The result is an estimate based only on the values you type. Real situations often include factors this calculator does not know about.